It is the perfect wine to celebrate the firsts in our lives, whether it’s a new job, a first date, marriage, children, graduations and so on. And, it is the perfect wine to memorialize the last milestones.

Therefore, I dedicate this special Wine of the Week to the firsts and lasts that we have the opportunity to embrace as we begin and end each adventure.

While Champagne may appear complicated, there are really just a few simple things to remember. First, only wines made in France’s tiny Champagne region can be called Champagne.

Next, most midlevel priced Champagnes ($25 — $50) are “nonvintage” or “NV.” This means that it’s a blend from several other years’ worth of wines from the same winery.

For example, a current Non-Vintage Champagne might be made up mostly of the 2017 vintage mixed in with a little of the 2016 vintage and topped off with bits and pieces of the 2015 and 2014 vintages.

This method of blending vintages is used to maintain a “house style” from year to year. A “Vintage” Champagne is always designated by a specific year on the bottle and is made entirely from grapes harvested that year.

Unless you know specifically what year you’re looking for, most NV’s are a good choice and can be enjoyed right away.

Lastly, Champagnes are made from three specific grape varieties; chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir.

A Champagne labeled “Blanc de Blancs” is made entirely from Chardonnay. “Blanc de Noirs” denotes that the wine was made from red grapes, such as meunier or pinot noir.  Most “Brut” Champagnes are made from a combination of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier.

If you’re celebrating the start of something big, you might as well go big.

The wonderfully dry Nonvintage Champagne Jacquesson 744 Cuvee Brut is a testament to the new style of winemaking embraced by one of the oldest Champagne Houses in the region. The “700 Series” of wines is produced from the same Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards from the same vintage, with small additions of reserve wine from previous vintages as needed.

The intention, according to Jean-Hervé is to, “retain the best characteristics of each harvest and not to disguise the variations that each year brings.” It features flavors of honey, apple and nectarine on a weighty palate with exceptional balance and finesse. The slightly creamy mouthfeel provides a silky-yet-firm finish. $70

If you’re finally going to stop and smell the roses, you might as well do it with a rosé Champagne. It certainly is one of my guilty pleasures.

The Nonvintage Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé is a blend of roughly 50% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir and 15% pinot meunier. The delicate pink color is accompanied by lovely scents of sweet cherry, vibrant strawberry and chalky mineral.

Bright black cherry, strawberry and red plum fruit flavors offer surprising depth. Mouthwatering mineral-laden acidity mesh with hints of baking spices on the beautiful finish. $95

Of course, if you really want to splurge, then I can think of no better way than popping the cork on a bottle of Non-Vintage Krug Grande Cuvée. The trademark signature style of Krug’s house blend is a combination of intensity and charm.

The creamy mouthfeel is layered with flavors of crisp green apple, baking spices, nectarine and buttered toast, all delivered on a medium-bodied frame emphasizing the lengthy finish. But make no mistake, this lovely Champagne is expensive — but worth it. $175

Note: In order to fully appreciate Champagne, serve it chilled in a small white wine glass or “tulip” style glass. While a tall flute-style glass is certainly elegant, and shows off the bubbles, a glass with a larger bowl allows you to fully appreciate the bouquet of the wine and will definitely enhance your experience.

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School is back in full swing, work is heating up and the weather is cooling down. And even though this fall, the routine might include remote learning and remote working, there are still some evenings when trying to find time to prepare a home-cooked meal just isn’t in the cards.

That’s when we run up the white flag and surrender to the siren call of carryout pizza — and a good bottle of wine.

Each year, we look back on some of the wines that we have enjoyed over a slice or two of various combinations of toppings and take notes on our favorites. And while we may not always agree on the type of pizza we like to unwind with, we do agree on three simple rules for “pizza wines.”

The wine should be able to mix and mingle with a variety of toppings, it has to cost $20 or less, and it should be easy to find in local wine shops.

So, in an attempt to help reduce the stress of having to make one more decision at the end of a busy day, we offer our annual picks for the perfect wine to go with pizza.

Cindy says:

I really like white pizzas, particularly with caramelized onions. White wines with crisp acidity tend to cut through the richness of the cheese, while fresh fruit flavors accent the toppings, so my selections run to the fresher, brighter end of the spectrum.

The 2018 d’Arenberg Marsanne/Viognier “The Hermit Crab” from McLaren Vale, Australia, is a wonderful Rhone varietal blend that will complement the sweetness of the onions and balance the richness of the cheese.

Pretty scents of melon, grapefruit and orange zest dominate the nose while lush flavors of peach, apricot and nectarine glide over a citrus-based frame. The noticeable acidity kept the wine in focus and accented the notes of lemon/lime on the medium finish. $15

Of course, no pizza wine article is complete without an Italian selection, like the 2019 Rocca Felice Roero Arneis from the Piedmont region.

The bouquet of this white wine features scents of stone fruit and white flowers. Flavors of nectarine, yellow peach and citrus are kept crisp and refreshing on the finish thanks to abundant acidity. $17

Scott says:

My favorite pizzas are usually red sauce-based and piled high with an assortment of meat toppings. This combination adds up to a lot of spicy flavors and greasy goodness, so I am seeking out Italian red wines that will be able to stand up to the flavorful challenges of various spices.

My “go to” pizza wine this year is the 2018 Villa Antinori Toscana Red from the Tuscany region of Italy. Made from a blend of Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this wine is easy on the wallet and easy on the palate.

Aromas of red berries and red cherry drift up from the glass while flavors of red plum, red berry and dark strawberry are balanced in the mouth by subtle tannins and bright acidity. $17

A big, spicy pizza needs a big, flavorful wine, like the 2018 Tenuta del Portale Aglianico del Vulture from the Basilicata region of Italy. It is made from 100% Aglianico (pronounced ah-lee-ah-niko) and is a bold red wine with a full-bodied backbone that supports flavors of blackberry, dark cherry and black plum.

The firm tannins provide a well-rounded frame and the hint of smokiness on the pleasant finish will complement pizzas topped with sausage and pepperoni. $16

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There is just something about the onset of Autumn that resets my palate, sliding the meter on my taste buds oh-so-gently from white wines to red wines.

However, I want to acclimate my tongue and ease into the red wine season with something that is charming-yet-sturdy, commanding-yet-elegant.

Pinot Noir is the perfect wine for the job.

Many winemakers will agree that the Pinot Noir grape is one of the most difficult varieties to grow and vinify, due in part to its thin skin and persnickety nature. While true, the trouble is worth the reward, because when Pinot Noir is good, it’s great. And when it’s great — well, it just doesn’t get any better.

I have to admit, when I think of Pinot Noir, Chile was not the first country that came to mind as a powerhouse producer of the finicky grape. However, over the last two decades, the South American country has exploded onto the Pinot stage with delicious wines at affordable prices.

With 3,000 miles of coastline to the west, the Andes Mountains to the east, the Atacama Desert to the north, and the Antarctic to the south, Chile’s long, narrow geography has created a natural barrier that has resulted in one of the most pristine ecosystems in the world. Free from most pests, including Phylloxera (which has ravaged vines throughout the world), most producers have no need to spray any pesticides, making it quite easy to farm organically.

A significant amount of production is located within the central valley, which stretches from the Maipo Valley, the closest wine region to Santiago, south 155 miles to the Maule Valley. Areas in the far north, as well as the two coastal regions of Casablanca and San Antonio, are carving out their niche for cool climate varieties that include Pinot Noir, and the Cono Sur Vineyards and Winery is leading the way.

Cono Sur was developed around the first Pinot Noir vines planted in the Colchagua Valley where the cool climate and fertile soil were a perfect match for the variety. It soon became the flagship grape for the winery.

During a recent virtual tasting of three pinot noirs, led by winemaker Matias Rios, it became clear that Cono Sur’s goal of producing some of the finest wines in Chile is right on track.

2019 Cono Sur Bicicleta Reserva

The fragrant nose features a bouquet of mushroom and forest floor while the palate exhibits savory flavors of plum and dark cherry. There is just a hint of mineral on the plush finish that really brings all of the flavors into balance. Enjoy with aged cheeses. $8

2019 Cono Sur Organic Pinot Noir

This bright and lively Pinot Noir made from organic grown grapes from the Santa Elisa Estate (60%) and Campo Lindo Estate (40%). It has good aromatic intensity with notes of berries such as cherry and raspberry with well-incorporated hints of wood. On the palate it has a medium concentration and is round, well-balanced, juicy and persistent. Pairs well with salmon, poultry, and mature cheeses. $11

2018 Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir Valle de Casablanca

This bright lively ruby red Pinot Noir is noted for its elegance and great intensity, displaying notes of sour cherries, raspberries, plum and hints of toast. On the palate it is fresh and juicy with the perfect amount of acidity. With smooth, long voluptuous tannins, this wine pairs well with fresh tuna, duck and pasta. $25

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After all, Pinot Noir can be subtle, charming and mellow. Yes, Pinot Noir is just the ticket to adjust the wine thermostat and prepare for bigger red wines during the cold months to come.

But it turns out that Pinot Noir is not the only light-styled red in the wine kingdom that plays the role of palate shifter. There are several other lighter-styled red wine varietals that will provide your tongue with an easy evolution from whites to reds that you should consider when both the leaves and the temperatures begin to fall.

Lambrusco is both the name of a wine grape as well as a wine region in Romagna in Northern Italy, and is one of the lightest red wines I know. There are technically six kinds of Lambrusco grapes.

The highest quality Lambruscos come from Lambrusco di Grasparossa, like the Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro by Enrico Cialdini. This semi-bubbly (think spritzy) is a dry red wine featuring a round mouthfeel and lovely black raspberry and dark strawberry fruit on the palate with a simple, straight forward finish. $17

Southern Italy’s Primitivo grape is thought to be directly related to American Zinfandel. While zinfandel is typically associated with making big, jammy wines, Italian Primitivo wines tends to be softer and more rustic than its American cousin.

The 2020 Caleo Primitivo Salento hails from the Puglia region in southern Italy. It is a delicious red wine full of bright red fruit on a wonderfully soft body and an uncomplicated, earthy finish. Just a nice red wine to enjoy with pizza, pasta or on its own. $10

Grenache is a popular grape variety found throughout the Rhone Valley in France, down in Australia and all over Spain, where it’s known by the name Garnacha. It is used as the primary blending grape in Chateaunuef du Pape and it is also the “G” in Australian red blends known as GSMs.

The 2018 QUO Grenache from the Campo de Borja region of Spain is produced from grapes grown on 40-year-old-plus vines. This delightfully fruity Grenache possesses a floral nose with slight hints of orange peel on the bouquet. The red berry flavors tend toward cherry, dark plum and red currant with an accent of dried herb and spice on the long, lingering finish. $12

Cinsault originally became a popular blending grape in Chateauneuf du Pape wines in the southern region of the Rhone Valley of France due to its ability to produce high yields. However, today’s Cinsault wines are made from smaller yields and produce richer wines that showcase Cinsault’s distinct savory characteristics.

The 2018 Michael David Ancient Vine Cinsault, from Lodi, California, features charming flavors of earthy dark cherry and luscious red berry fruit on a medium-bodied frame. The silky smooth finish accents the bright notes of cranberry on the back of the tongue. $25

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Summer is winding down to a close, and the reentry into what was traditionally considered (at least, before the pandemic) the first regular workweek requires a gentle approach. A smooth landing back to work and school calls for the perfect Labor Day wine.

Here are a few wines to welcome the long Labor Day weekend and bid farewell to summer.

I love rosé wines any time of year, but summer just seems to be the perfect match for them. The Pale Rosé is offered by the producer of the iconic Provence Rosé, Whispering Angel. It is chic, stylish and a bit irreverent.

The whimsical label, which evokes New York’s glamorous early to mid-20th century cocktail party scenes, as well as the streetside cafes of London and Paris, was inspired by early illustrations from The New Yorker magazine.

The wine offers loads of strawberry and citrus-like aromas. The matching flavor profile sits on a lightly textured, medium-bodied frame that’s perfect for a hot summer day. The high acidity and delightful minerality keep the wine refreshing and bright, making it a perfect match with seafood and rotisserie chicken.

I’d drink it on its own, too. Refrigerate before serving. $17

If your Labor Day efforts require nothing more than a hammock and an ice bucket, then the 2018 Laetare Pinot Grigio from Friuli, Italy, is perfect to chill out with. The pretty straw-colored wine has a lovely floral nose that includes scents of nectarines and apple blossoms.

The crisp flavors of apples, passion fruit and honeyed-citrus make this a wine to pair with either barbecue chicken — or nothing at all. $15

And speaking of chilling out, many people don’t realize that putting a little chill on certain red wines provides a wonderfully refreshing alternative for red wine lovers, like the 2019 Drouhin Beaujolais Village from the Beaujolais Village AOC just south of France’s famed Burgundy region.

Made exclusively from Gamay grapes; fresh aromas of black fruits, red cherries and mild spices permeating the nose are repeated on the palate where baking spices and tea combine with silky tannins on the fresh finish.

It pairs well with a lot of different foods, like salmon, chicken and grilled meat. Chill for about 20 minutes before serving. $19

If you’re grilling steaks, burgers or ribs and are in the mood to splurge, then you’ll definitely want a big red wine. I suggest the 2016 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve from the Alexander Valley in Sonoma, California.

This is a full-bodied, richly textured wine that offers a remarkably rewarding bouquet of blackberries, blueberries and cherries. In the mouth, intense flavors of black currant, cherries, dark plums and black licorice liqueur wash over the front of the tongue, and a touch of mocha glides in on the powerful and sleek finish.

It’s the perfect accompaniment with either a burger or steak. $45

A helpful hint for summertime wine enjoyment: If you’re planning on serving your chilled wine outside, consider buying a spare bottle, opening it up a few hours before guests arrive and pouring it into a clean plastic ice cube tray.

Place the tray in the freezer, then use the frozen wine cubes to keep your guests’ wines chilled to the perfect temperature throughout the day.

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So imagine my surprise during my first year in D.C. when I was invited over to a friend’s home for a summer crab-fest. A large steaming pot was proudly brought to a folding table on the deck, and the contents were ceremoniously dumped onto brown construction paper covering the surface.

The contents, as I have come to appreciate over the years, were blue crabs, a much more diminutive version of the West Coast crustacean I had known and loved. But as I started to pick my way through the pile — both literally and figuratively — I wondered out loud why anyone would go through all this trouble for just a few morsels of crabmeat per crab.

That’s when my host explained that the time-honored tradition of picking crabs is as much about sitting around the table, shooting the breeze, the coleslaw, boiled corn and, of course, the beer, as it is the crab meat itself.

The beer? Wait a minute … I get that beer might be the customary go-to beverage at a crab-a-palooza, but there are plenty of crab-friendly wines that have the ability to cut through the Old Bay and stand up to the tasty goodness of the crabmeat itself.

Whether you like your crabs in cakes, sautéed in soft shells or picking the blues, there is definitely a wine out there for you!

So, just round up a mess of crabs, invite some friends and neighbors over, and don’t forget the wine.

One of my favorite summertime thirst-quenching wines is the Nonvintage Casa Bianchi New Age White Wine from Argentina. It is also my go-to top choice for cooling the heat of crabs. Pour the well-chilled wine over ice and then add a squeeze of lime for an incredibly refreshing aperitif. A blend of 90% Torrontes and 10% Sauvignon Blanc, the citrus-based wine provides a wonderful backbone for flavors of peach and nectarine to shine through. The slight fizz gives a revitalizing boost to the palate. $10

If you like your pickers with a lot of Old Bay seasoning (and who doesn’t), you’ll need an off-dry white wine that can take the heat, like the 2019 Clos Chapon Vouvray Sec from the Loire Valley of France. The nose shows off a brilliant bouquet of ripe stone fruits, but it is the exceptional body that makes this wine work so well with crab. The mouthfeel is crisp and bright, and has enough acidity to cut through the richness of the crab and just a touch of sweetness to offset the spicy accents of the Old Bay. The balance between the ripe fruit — think nectarine, peach and pear — and the abundant acidity is perfect for crab pickers. $17

The 2019 Jermann Pinot Grigio from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of Italy is a wonderful choice if you like your crab without a ton of seasoning. The bouquet is fresh and complex, displaying a nose of sage and nectarine and a touch of minerality typical of Pinot Grigio. Flavors of meadow flowers, pears and golden apple are lively and elegant as they dance on the medium bodied frame. A hint of lemon zest and minerality lingers on the crisp finish. $20

If the succulent meat is your ultimate reward for picking crabs, then celebrate the success of your labors with the 2019 Dry Creek Vineyards Fumé Blanc from the Dry Creek Valley. Modeled after the classic wines from the Loire Valley in France, this Sauvignon Blanc features scents of grapefruit and orange blossom burst through on the fragrant bouquet. The ever-so crisp body carries flavors of tropical fruit and nectarine but the abundant acidity that supports all of those wonderful fruit flavors will cut through the richness of the crab like a laser, refreshing the palate between sips and getting your mouth ready for the next wonderful bite. $13

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Today marks the 12th anniversary of Wine of the Week on Â鶹ąŮÍř radio. During that time, I have had the privilege to share with listeners each week the discovery of unknown gems, delicious bargains and fantasized about a few special occasion wines. But today, I thought it would be fun to revisit the inaugural broadcast that started it all: Naked Chardonnays.

Drinking naked is not as naughty as it sounds. The expression is actually a wine term of art that was coined by Australian winemakers. It refers to any white wine that has been made without the use of any “new” oak. Other idioms include virgin, au naturel, in-the-buff and birthday suit. You have to love Australian wine humor.

The practice of making wine without oak is not new. Ancient Romans made and stored wines in clay jugs. As the Romans moved throughout Europe and the Middle East, a sturdier vessel was required to withstand the long journeys, so wooden barrels were fashioned to transport the wines. The method quickly gained popularity for both its durability and for the subtle flavors — typically vanilla and buttered toast — that the wood imparted to the wine. In addition, the porous wood allowed the wines to “breath” and develop additional complexity as it aged.

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Today, some winemakers use oak almost as a “flavoring” and, like any seasoning, it can be very subtle or heavy-handed. Either way, oak barrels are expensive — particularly French oak — and winemakers have found less expensive ways to impart oak characteristics to the finished product. In some instances, winemakers add oak flavor by utilizing oak staves, oak chips or — in the case of very inexpensive wines — tea bags filled with oak sawdust.

However, “naked” Chardonnays are fermented and stored in stainless steel tanks where they don’t receive any oak treatment whatsoever. Without any influence from the oak, naked Chardonnays allow the full, natural flavor of the fruit to shine through. Characteristically, these wines feature flavors of crisp green apples, nectarines and pears. And since there isn’t any oak to interfere with the acidity, these wines have a tendency to be more refreshing than their oak-soaked cousins. This style of Chardonnay is actually very versatile and can add a refreshing touch during the summer when warmer months call for lighter-styled, crisper wines.

For those wine consumers whose battle cry is ABC (anything but Chardonnay), unoaked Chardonnays offer a pleasant alternative to Sauvignon Blancs, Pinot Grigios and Rieslings. They are just the thing to serve along with seafood, shellfish or roast chicken. Or you can simply enjoy them while sitting on the porch. Soon, your new motto will be “drink naked.”

Here are a few of my favorite “naked” wines that I think are worth looking for.

If you’re looking for a delicious value, look no further than the 2019 Four Vines “Naked” Chardonnay from Santa Barbara County, California. A great value for a wine of this quality, the bouquet is full of green apples, pear and nectarines. The flavors of peach, nectarine and kiwi are supported by surprisingly good depth that carries the fresh fruit across the palate. The bright acidity on the finish really accents the notes of citrus and pineapple and makes this a great pick to enjoy on a summer picnic. $10

Another charming value white is the 2019 River Road Unoaked Chardonnay from California. It has lovely scents of Gala apple, acacia flowers and Bartlett pear. The supple palate displays notes of ripe apple, nectarine, pink grapefruit and lemon zest upfront with notes of tropical fruit on the medium-bodied finish. $15

A deliciously refreshing version from south of the equator is the 2018 Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay from the Marlborough region of New Zealand. It exhibits a zesty bouquet of lemon/lime and fresh peach. The acidity accents the fresh flavors of peach, pineapple, honeydew melon and tropical fruit. The finish ends cleanly with accents of grapefruit on the back end. $18

Also from the southern hemisphere, comes the 2020 Natura Chardonnay Unoaked from Chile. This Chardonnay derives its pure fruit flavor from the temperature-controlled stainless steel fermentation and native yeasts, producing layers of fruit-focused tropical fruit and pear aromas with a clean, crisp balance on an easy, charming frame. The abundant acidity keeps the finish fresh and balanced. A great value for an unoaked Chardonnay. $13

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But one of the surefire ways we can get them to find their way home and sit down and spend some a little quality time with us is to prepare their favorite dinner: A perfectly grilled bone-in rib eye steak, served with fresh corn on the cob.

But as picky as our children are about their choice of grilled fare, so too is our choice of wine that we want to pair with these cherished meals together.

When it comes to grilling, I am a devoted fan of the craft, so the wines I tend to gravitate toward have to be able to live up to the effort I put forth in the preparation of the main course. I confess, I do have the propensity to seek out bigger red wines that tend to be a little more fruit-forward on the palate and driven by tannins that help cut through the fat of well-marbled meat.

And it is important to note, many of my favorite red-meat red wines don’t command an expensive price tag. There are a lot of grilled-fare friendly reds that will hold up their end of the proverbial bargain when it comes time to scratch that steak itch.

Some of the best bargains in steak friendly wines are red blends. For example, the domestic version of Bordeaux-style wines is known as a “Meritage” (rhymes with heritage) and is usually a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot in varying percentages. Best of all, you don’t have to go far to find a great example.

The 2019 King Family Vineyards Meritage is produced right down the road in Monticello, Virginia. A perennial Virginia Governor’s Cup winner, this Bordeaux-style red is a blend of 48% Merlot, 28% Petit Verdot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec. It shines with aromas of black cherry, currants, and blueberry on the nose and flavors of blackberry, cassis, chocolate and spice flavors that would complement any steak with straightforward seasonings. $34

Another example of a classic Meritage — this time from the west coast — is the 2018 Girard Artistry Red from Napa Valley, California. It is a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc with just a touch more Cabernet Franc than you might see in other blends, which really highlights the bold flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark plum and spice that would be happy sliding up to any steak with just about any seasoning. $40

I recently had Owen Row winemaker and co-owner David O’Reilly on the Vine Guy podcast to talk about his venture in Washington State. I have to say, I was thoroughly intrigued by the stories of his ancestral home in Ireland and how the artwork on his labels pay homage to his family’s history. So don’t let the severed hand on the label of the 2019 Owen Row Sinister Hand from Columbia Valley in Washington State dissuade you from pairing this big beauty with your favorite cut of beef. This Rhone-style wine is a blend of 57% Syrah, 18% Grenache, 18% Mourvèdre, 5% White Rhone, and 2% Cinsault. The lively nose features aromas of black raspberry, dark plum and hints of toasty oak. Flavors of black cherry, olive tapenade and black pepper are perfectly integrated with the fine tannins and juicy acidity. This switch-hitting wine would be right at home with steak or lamb. $26

Of course, a traditional steak-and-wine pairing calls for a big Cabernet Sauvignon. Now, most oenophiles would immediately think California — and that’s a good choice — but the 2020 Tapiz Cabernet Sauvignon from the Mendoza region of Argentina delivers a lot of oomph for the money. It is a big, spicy wine featuring flavors of blackberry, dark plum and ripe boysenberry built on a well-balanced frame. Earthy notes of black pepper shine on the stylish finish, where the firm tannins and crisp acidity form a solid backbone, providing great structure. Perfect with dry-rubbed steak. $19

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As soon as we arrived, I handed the wine to our host with a touch of ceremony and was shocked when a look of what can only be described as disappointment spread across his face. Uh oh, I thought, did I bring a wine that reminded him of a bad experience, or worse, his ex-wife? I couldn’t resist. I had to know what was behind his obvious distress. I was relieved, yet somewhat annoyed, by his response.

“Well,” he replied, “I thought that you were an educated wine guy who was going to bring some fancy wine to dinner. I’m just a little surprised that you brought a wine with a screw cap.” And there it was. I was standing face-to-face with a screw cap chauvinist. I knew I was in for a long evening.

Fortunately, he was more interested in learning than debating, so I took the opportunity to explain why I thought screw caps were not only a legitimate bottle closure alternative to cork, but also why they were preferable in certain situations. While cork — processed from the bark of a particular oak tree species that grows mainly in Portugal — has been the front-runner for keeping wine in bottles for centuries, it is not without some drawbacks.

First and foremost is “cork taint,” or 2,4,6 Trichloroanisole (TCA), which happens when naturally occurring fungi in the cork comes into contact with Chlorophenol compounds, such as the bleach used to clean corks. TCA imparts a musty, dank, wet cardboard character to wine, literally masking all other aromas and flavors. While cork producers have reduced the frequency of tainted corks, wine industry research indicates that 3% to 5% of all wines sealed with a cork are affected to some degree by TCA contamination.

Second is a phenomenon known as “flavor scalping” where the cork absorbs flavors from the wine. In addition, the porous nature of corks allows a miniscule exchange of air in and out of the bottle which, in many cases can actually aid in the aging process, but in excess can lead to premature oxidation of the wine.

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Lastly, screw caps require no special tools to open, and can be easily resealed.

However, screw caps aren’t perfect. Because they are not porous, wines sealed with a screw cap do not age as well — if at all — the way wines sealed with corks do. And in rare cases, screw caps can impart a burnt or rubberized flavor to the wine due to faulty process.

By the end of my discourse, our host seemed to be appeased, but just to be safe, I decided to let the wine speak for itself and win the closing argument. After a twist of the wrist, a good time was had by all as we raised our glasses and toasted to screwing off.

For the record, the wine that I brought over for dinner was the 2019 Caymus Conundrum white wine blend from California. This intriguing blend of Chardonnay, Muscadet, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier grapes are sourced from various vineyards throughout California and is a great value. It features aromas of honeysuckle, peaches and apricot and mouth-filling flavors of melon, pear and creamy vanilla. Citrus notes sneak in on the crisp, semi-dry finish. $12

Elena Walch was a successful architect from Milan when she fell in love with Werner Walch, the proprietor of the Wilhelm Walch estate, which had been in his family since 1869. Her marriage took her to the vineyards of Alto Adige in Italy, where she eventually discovered her own knack for making wines of distinction and finesse. Today, she is considered the Queen of Pinot Grigio and her 2020 Elena Walch Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige, Italy is proof. The bouquet is bursting with aromas of orange blossom, grapefruit and pineapple. Crisp notes of nectarine, peach and lemon/lime fill the mouth while bracing acidity keeps the finish fresh and lively. $24

A bottle with a screw cap enclosure used to be a warning sign that a wine might be of lesser quality, but not today. Take exhibit A, the 2018 Alexana “Revana Vineyard” Riesling from the Willamette Valley of Oregon. The fruit is grown on a cool microclimate vineyard that consistently produces a decidedly dry wine with aromas of apple blossom, orchard fruit and lemon zest. On the palate, the substantial acidity provides a lovely platform for flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, and lemongrass up front while notes of tangy kumquats file in on the back. The bone-dry finish keeps the palate refreshed. Enjoy with grilled zucchini or eggplant. $32

While it is my observation that most wines under screw cap are white wines, there are indeed a few red wines with a twist-top, including the 2019 d’Arenberg The Stump Jump is a blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre from McLaren Vale may be one of the best red wine values coming out of Australia today. This line-up of three muscular grapes possesses a huge nose full of blueberries and blackberries. On the palate, it delivers a lush yet balanced mouthful of black fruit flavors and spices that pair perfectly with summertime dinners like barbeque ribs or lamb burgers. $10

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Oregon has long been known for its spectacular scenery and fertile soils, but it hasn’t been until the early 1980s or so that the state began to achieve international recognition as a major wine-producing region. Willamette Valley, roughly an hour’s drive south of Portland, is on the map as one of the best regions in the country for producing world-class pinot noir wines that have a style all their own.

Blessed with a diversity of soil composition (volcanic, sedimentary, and sandstone and shale) and a temperate climate, the Willamette Valley is about as ideal a place to grow the finicky pinot noir grape as anywhere in the world. The warm days and cool nights, thanks to cooling maritime influences, contribute to even ripening, intense fruit characteristics and bright acidity. In general, they are a touch bolder than their French cousins and a bit rounder than the pinot noir revolution going on Down Under in Australia.

Oregon pinot noirs typically display flavors of wild strawberry, dark cherry, graphite, tea and bramble. Stony minerality is another hallmark feature.

Coeur de Terre (Heart of the Earth) Vineyard is a family-owned winery located a bit off of the beaten path in the foothills of the Oregon Coast Range. Nestled in a protective valley, the surrounding mountains and hills provide just the right amount of heat to allow for a slow and gentle ripening of the fruit while protecting the vineyard from harsh coastal winds. Husband and wife Scott Neal (winemaker) and Lisa Neal (vineyard and winery operations) are dedicated to using only organic farming techniques that they feel contribute to the unique characteristics expressed in their wines, like their 2017 Coeur de Terre Vineyard Oregon Pinot Noir from McMinnville. It displays red fruit and dark cherry characters, both in the nose and on the palate. Wild cherry and juicy raspberry flavors intermingle with hints of spice and minerals on the pretty finish. $26

Listening to St. Innocent’s winemaker/owner Mark Vlossak is like listening to a human encyclopedia on the soil composition of the Eola-Amity Hills region of Willamette Valley. His passion for making wines that taste of a place is infectious, and you can literally taste each nuance of earthy raspberry, black cherry and strawberry flavors in the 2016 St. Innocent Temperance Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir. As the wine opens, the flavors expand and find their balance. The pretty finish features fine-grained tannins that support a touch of baking spices and mineral undertones. $38

If you’re looking to splurge, I can’t think of few indulgences from the Willamette Valley bigger than the 2017 Ken Wright Cellars Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir. Hailing from the most acclaimed vineyard site in the valley, this pinot noir is an excellent example of how great Oregon pinot can be. Ripe, lush black cherries, blackberries and blueberries jump out of this dark ruby red wine. In the mouth, layers upon layers of jammy blackberries are accented by notes of sweet plum and spice. Its structure is well focused and the smooth tannins lend themselves to a long, silky finish. I would try this with roasted quail or pheasant. $60

In Willamette Valley, it’s all about location, location, location, and the Zena Crown Vineyard in the Eola-Amity appellation is the epitome of the adage. Winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash has been lucky enough to take some of the best grapes from this consistently cool climate and well-drained volcanic soil for her 2018 Penner-Ash Zena Crown Pinot Noir. The pretty bouquet sports scents of red cherry and bright red berry. Flavors of cherry, baking spices and clove feel silky smooth in the mouth. A hint of cocoa on the back of the palate really adds a delightful note to the beautiful, lush finish. $65

Note: As a general rule of thumb, I don’t recommend decanting pinot noir wines. In most cases, just a few minutes of time in the glass will bring these wines up to their full potential.

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For example, I’ve written a lot about Rose and Sauvignon Blanc wines that are refreshing and thirst quenching. However, I have not yet covered the wonderful world of Riesling.

Riesling is a white grape variety with a reputation for food pairing that began centuries ago in the Alsace region of France and the Rheingau region of Germany. Today, it is cultivated throughout the grape-growing world.

Depending on country of origin, they are remarkably diverse. Contrary to popular belief, the vast majority of Rieslings are not sweet. Many have a touch of residual sugar, but that just makes them more appealing in warm weather months.

Probably the most important thing to note about Rieslings is that they are incredibly versatile. The bright acidity and orchard fruit notes lend themselves as a great dance partner with a wide assortment of fares, including Asian, Indian and European cuisines. And let’s not forget the good old American centerpiece at Thanksgiving: turkey.

I love to serve Riesling slightly chilled and then marvel as both the aromas and the flavors change and evolve as the wine slowly warms up a bit in the glass. And while as mentioned above, Rieslings are wonderful with food, I think many of them are just splendid on their own.

One of my favorite versions combines the best of Old-World charm with New-World techniques. The from the Columbia Valley in Washington State is the result of a collaboration between world-renown German winemaker, Ernst Loosen, and the winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle, Bob Bertheau. Using Washington state fruit, they have produced a Riesling that delivers aromas of zesty lime and orange and flavors of ripe white peach, lemon and lime. Notes of crushed stone and slate blend in seamlessly with juicy acidity on the layered finish. A nice, dry-style Riesling to pair with chicken or pork. Best of all, it’s only $17!

And speaking of Loosen, his 2018 Dr. Loosen Blue Slate Riesling Kabinett from the Mosel Valley in Germany is a blend of fruit from several of his blue-slate vineyards in Bernkastel and Graach. The flavors of baked apple pie, juicy white peach, and ripe apricot are supported by lemon/lime acidity and beautiful minerality – think crushed stone. This wine screams summer picnic and would pair beautifully with fried chicken or barbeque fare. $24

Whoever said that beer is the only adult beverage you can pair with steamed has probably never tried the from the island of Tasmania off the coast of Australia. I was fortunate enough to stumble upon this wine during a trip Down Under just before the pandemic and wished I had brought along a bushel of crabs after tasting it. This wine really plays up citrus notes and crisp acidity of the palate. Flavors of lemon, lime and pineapple fill the mouth while abundant acidity keeps the fruit in balance. Hints of tropical fruit and just a kiss of sweetness on the finish makes this wine a great moving buddy with crabs and Old Bay. $20

Riesling may not be the first grape variety you think of when you think of the Willamette Valley of Oregon, but the 2018 Penner-Ash Old Vine Hyland Riesling just may just change that. In the hands of founding winemaker this wine is intoxicating. With aromas reminiscent of a classic Loire Valley Riesling, it features scents of citrus peel, roasted almonds, stony minerality and petrol (a good thing). On the palate, the wine sports a wonderful richness with flavors of ripe white peach, tart nectarine and a touch of green melon. The finish is expansive and lengthy, with just a hint of mineral-laden acidity to keep the wine in balance. $35

If you’re in the mood to splurge, try the absolutely gorgeous 2011 Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile. Named after Jean and Pierre Trimbach’s great-great-grandfather, this Riesling is only produced when the grapes meet the winery’s highest standards. The wines are aged in the bottle and released when deemed appropriate. Concentrated and complex, the 2011 version shows intense minerality and acidity that balances the vivid lemon, grapefruit, apple and honeyed-pear flavors. The finish is rich, earthy and long with perfect finesse and balance. It is drinking well now and will only continue to improve over the next decade, if you can resist opening the bottle. $65

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But who ever let a little rain get in the way of enjoying the rare treat of opening the perfect summer wine to enjoy all weekend long?

So here are a few wines that I think you can open and enjoy with your favorite summertime fare or just on its own, preferably with a hammock.

If you’re looking for an inexpensive way to start the weekend off on a bubbly note, try the Non-Vintage Lucien Albrecht Cremant D’Alsace Brut Rosé.

This sparkling pinot noir from the southern Alsace region of France features a delightful nose with scents of fresh strawberries and baked bread. Flavors of red berry and strawberry are carried by delicate bubbles and supported by great acidity. $18

I am a big fan of tropical fruit-centric styled Sauvignon Blanc wines that have great acidity, and the 2019 Trione Sauvignon Blanc River Road Ranch from the Russian River Valley region of Sonoma, California, hits all the right notes.

The citrusy bouquet of grapefruit, lemon and tropical fruit dominates the nose. Prominent flavors of pineapple, pear and more grapefruit sit impressively on the mineral laden frame while the bright finish stays crisp and fresh, thanks to the abundant acidity.

It’s a winner with either grilled chicken or lime-marinated grilled snapper. $22

Inexpensive Pinot Noir from France used to be an oxymoron, but not anymore. And you need look no further than the delicious 2018 Joseph Drouhin Laforet Pinot Noir from the famed Burgundy region of France to see why.

This elegant red wine features strawberry, raspberry and touches of red licorice. The bright acidity keeps the wine focused and refined. A beautiful bargain from Burgundy that will pair perfectly with grilled salmon or tuna. $18

“Crianza” means that wine has been aged at the winery, and in the case of the beautifully aged 2016 Cune Rioja Crianza from the Rioja region of Spain, it has been aged for 12 restful months in oak.

It has wonderful spicy flavors of blackberry, black cherry and toasted oak on a medium frame. Notes of cocoa and roasted coffee show well on the finish and provide wonderful versatility so that you can enjoy it with steak, burgers or ribs. $16

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But that was then. Today, wine is a familiar sight at backyard barbecues across the country.

Celebrating the birth of our country in the nation’s capital with an assortment of red, white and sparkling wines is a great way to declare your own independence.

As Benjamin Franklin put it, “Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance.” I’ll drink to that.

I use to love running around the front lawn waving sparklers, blissfully ignoring the small patches of skin that were singed by wayward cinders. Today, my sparklers are made up of bubbles instead of burns. The American-born Non-Vintage Mumm Napa Cuvée M sparkling wine from Napa Valley, California, is a versatile and delicious bubbly. A delicious blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Meunier, it sports flavors of melon, green apple and bright citrus zest. It can stand alone as an aperitif or pairs beautifully with the All-American dessert, apple pie. $23

What better way to celebrate our independence than with a red wine that is all about liberty, like the 2019 Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California. An elegant, medium-bodied Cabernet with aromas of black cherry and plum followed by subtle flavors of strawberry and spice. Firm yet supple tannins finish off this approachable fruit-driven Cabernet, making it ideal for the grill. $13

The super-delicious — and aptly named — 2017 St. Innocent Freedom Hill Pinot Blanc from the Willamette Valley of Oregon is just what the summer ordered, particularly if you like a bit of Asian fare to go with your fanfare. Floral scents of gardenias and sweet lychee nut erupt on the bouquet. The palate is immediately enticed with superb minerality and freshness that lifts the flavors of peach, pear, apricot and nectarine in the mouth. The wonderful acidity simultaneously tames the heat of spicy dishes while supporting the freshness of the wine. $22

Zinfandel is considered the All-American grape, and thanks to the characteristic dark fruit and black pepper notes, it pairs well with grilled meats like steaks and ribs. The 2018 Federalist Bourbon Barrel-Aged Zinfandel from Mendocino County, California, is a big zin aged in charred bourbon barrels. A blend of mostly Zinfandel with small amounts of Petite Sirah and Merlot, this wine features beautiful aromas of blackberry, forest floor, vanilla and toasty oak. In the mouth, the wine offers up flavors of ripe black cherries, dark plums and blueberry liqueur on the palate. It’s aged in oak barrels formerly used to age bourbon, so there is just a touch of smokiness on the finish that melds perfectly with the black pepper notes. A perfect accompaniment with burgers, ribs and steaks. $20

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Barbecue sauce and wine? This is where Zinfandel shines, and nobody does Zinfandel like Ravenswood Winery, located in Sonoma, Calif.

With more than a dozen different Zinfandels to choose from, they are to wine what charcoal is to your grill. The secret is that the robust aspect of this grape variety can stand up to big sauces. In addition, the talented winemaking team assures that each bottling has a place in the summer lineup, whether it’s burgers or brownies — yes, these Zins love chocolate, too!

So, get ready to fire up the grill and experience an explosion of flavor this Independence Day.

If grilled chicken is on the menu for July Fourth, then consider putting the 2019 Ravenswood Zinfandel Lodi in the glass. Dense yet supple, this all-around Zin offers up blackberry, black cherry and dark raspberry flavors on a medium-bodied frame supported by smooth tannins and bright acidity. The characteristic notes of pepper are backed up by a hint of cocoa on the charming finish. $12

I grew up eating barbecue tri-tip sandwiches as a kid, and I wish I was old enough back then to appreciate how much better my favorite sandwich would have been with the 2016 Ravenswood Old Vine Zinfandel, Sonoma County. It sports a ripe fruit bouquet of blackberries, dark cherries and hints of toasty oak. Flavors of blackberry jam, black raspberry and black pepper attack the palate, while subtle flavors of vanilla, clove and cinnamon are supported by firm tannins that run out long and elegantly on the savory finish. $21

The care and love I put into my smoked barbecued ribs deserves equal attention. The 2012 Ravenswood Zinfandel Old Hill from Sonoma is the perfect sidekick. The juxtaposition of ripe boysenberry, sweet cherry and blueberry liqueur flavored against the spicy, peppery frame provides a wonderfully balanced contrast between richness and rustic. The long, spicy finish fills out the entire palate. $47

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While it may be one of those “made up” holidays, lumped in with Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day, created by the greeting card industry: I don’t care. Ever since I joined the ranks of fatherhood all those years ago, I used to look forward to getting ties I would never wear or a pair of colorful socks to be relegated to the far corners of my drawer.

But now that the children are older and I no longer wear ties, I am anticipating wine-themed gifts that might last longer than an actual bottle of wine itself, such as a book about wine, or a wine-related gadget, or maybe even a cool wine experience.

Here’s hoping that they are reading this and taking the hint. And if not, at least these recommendations will keep dear old dad entertained long after the socks are put away.

The James Beard award-winning Wine Folly Magnum Edition: The Master Guide by Madeline Puckette and Justin Hammack will have you feeling like an expert in no time. From the creators of , this edition is packed with information for devotees and newbies. It is an easy-to-digest approach to learning about wine, and covers a wide range of topics that will help all wine lovers take their knowledge to the next level. Hardcover available from Amazon for about $20.

Forgot to open and decant that bottle of wine you wanted with dinner? No worries. Pull out the Vinturi aerator, attach it to the bottle, pour the wine into each glass and voilà — you’re ready to go. Its patented swirling action allows just the right amount of oxygen to get in and open up the wine. It comes with a dishwasher safe, no-drip stand and a washable storage pouch. Note that there is an aerator for red wines, as well as one for white wines. Available at Amazon, Sur la Table and specialty wine shops for about $30.

What you pour your wine into really does matter. Having a nice set of glassware or an elegant decanter can add a lot of pleasure to your dad’s wine-drinking enjoyment, both practically and aesthetically. Best of all, it does not have to break the bank. Pick up a set of the new “O” Series wine glass by Reidel. I like the cabernet/merlot glasses since they offer more versatility, but the glassware comes in several styles for different wine varieties. Around $25 for a set of two glasses.

If the dad in your life collects older wines, consider hunting down one of the greatest wine openers I have ever used; The Durand Corkscrew. It’s perfect for opening older bottles of wine with fragile corks. It is a combination of an Ah-So style opener (two long thin blades that slide down opposite sides of the cork) and a traditional worm. Between them, they reliably work together to grab the cork, and remove it intact. It is not cheap. But if you are opening a priceless old wine, it is well worth it to have an intact cork come out of that cherished bottle. Available online at for $125.

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